Windsor to Staines

For the last day of this leg, we started with breakfast in Windsor.

The path starts on the former towpath round Windsor Park, then "for security reasons" crosses the river to the Datchet side. This substitute path wanders away from the river, and we found ourselves at times treading a careful line between shoulder-high nettles either side. After some stretches on the road as well, we eventually crossed the river again to a more established way. Despite increasingly close and frequent aircraft overhead, it could be tranquil here.

Soon we approached Runnymede, where the Magna Carta eighth centenary has been celebrated this year. This was busy with tourists and picnicers, and we had to queue for our planned break at the Magna Carta tearoom. We also saw a pop-up exhibition by Brunel University on the Magna Carta.

The path got busier as we approached Staines - now passing under the M25 and past the London Stone: signs that we were entering London. 

The London walks must wait for the next instalment.

Maidenhead to Windsor

From Maidenhead the path passes under the elegant brick arches of Brunel's 1839 railway bridge. A good quality path continued on the left bank all the way, but somehow this turned out not an especially noteable or eventful day's walk, with more in the way of architecture than nature to see. We had hoped to see more of Dorney Lakes, the Olympic rowing venue, but had walked almost all the way round before we could actually see them.

The weather forecast had mentioned the possibility of rain today, but was dry, sunny and hot by the time we arrived at Windsor.

Marlow to Maidenhead

After getting back to Marlow by train, we did a bit of shopping before starting the walk. To start off, the journey to Bourne End followed closely, not only the river, but also the railway line we had just taken - even crossing the Thames by the same bridge.

The walk continued to Cookham, passing the church made more famous by artist Sir Stanley Spencer. You could almost imagine The Resurrection.

We had to choose where to have lunch - the Ferry, the Bel and Dragon, or the King's Arms? The B & D looked like it had lots of lobsters, truffles, etc. - but walkers need something simpler, so we chose the King's Arms, and were very happy with our choice.

Next was the Stanley Spencer gallery, a planned highlight. Not large, but packed with his works (now more so than usual because of additional loans).

We had toyed with the idea of visiting Cliveden as well, but this is on the opposite bank, with no
access from the Thames Path. It would have been a long diversion by taxi. Instead, we continued along the path, with just a few glimpses of the Cliveden estate opposite. Past Boulter's Lock (ice cream kiosk), we arrived in Maidenhead, where the railway station seemed too far away from the river.

We saw one possible Great Crested Grebe and a pair of low-flying kestrels and the usual geese and ducks today.

Henley-on-Thames to Marlow

We set out to do Chapter 9 of the 'Thames Path in the Country' guidebook. Unfortunately, while manipulating bag, hat, sunglasses and guidebook right at the start, the book fell in the river! A passing boatman fished it out for us, and it did eventually dry out enough.

The first leg of today's walk took us right past the Henley Regatta course. There were rowers everywhere preparing for next week's event, and others too getting facilities in place. We had to take care not to get in the way of coaches following their crews by cycle along the path, but once we were past the rowing course, things quitened down.

We stopped for lunch at the Flower Pot Inn in Aston. This was a nice break - ploughman's with a pork pie that they had to explain was really a gala pie - which we had outside.

Walking on, we had an ice-cream from the tearoom at Hurley Lock. The path crosses to the north bank at Temple bridge, then passes Bisham Abbey and its ancient church (pictured) on the other bank.

From time to time on today's walk, we were passed by worthy participants in the Thames Ring: runners who had started at Goring on a 250-mile run which they aim to do in just a few days.

From Marlow, we took a train back to our temporary base in Slough.

Resuming...

So, we're back on the Thames Path again from Tuesday, continuing our walk from Henley, where we left off last year. This time, as train connections are better, we'll be staying in one place (Slough), returning there by train at the end of each day's walk, and resuming the following morning. This is going to be more flexible than having to walk to wherever we had booked to stay the night. We aim to get to Staines on Saturday.

Oxford to Henley: the week reviewed

Writing a blog on a smartphone after each day's walk was a bit of an innovation for me. It gives the blog a bit more more immediacy, but is also fiddly to do, so I've been back and made some edits to expand/improve on what I wrote at the time.

We have walked about fifty miles, and feel we have achieved something.

We were very lucky with the weather. Although prepared for all weathers, we managed to avoid any rain for the whole six days of walking. The rain began about two hours after we had arrived in Henley, and our train journey back on Friday was in heavy showers. Although I may have grumbled a bit some days, it was never too hot, either.

Most of the walk is by a quiet river, although in June sometimes the vegetation was so high we couldn't actually see it. We saw dragonflies and damselflies in their hundereds, and were bitten by horseflies. There were all sorts of water fowl, and the one surprise was the snake. We were disappointed not to see a kingfisher (where we had seen a few on our 2010 walk from the source to Oxford).

Looking back on the week suggests a few overall preferences:

Best day's walk: Goring to Reading, because of its variety

Best breakfast: Premier Inn

Best lunch:  Barely Mow, Clifton Hampden (good food and ale, and all in cosy and literary ambience)

Best evening meal: George, Dorchester

Best hotel room: George, Dorchester

And now, on to plan the walk down from Henley-on-Thames.

Reading to Henley-on-Thames

Last night we met friends for a meal then stayed at Rainbows Lodge, which met all basic requirements.

Setting off again this morning, we managed to pop into a supermarket on the Path, before it veers away from the built-up area. From now on, we heard less of the trains, although aircraft approaching Heathrow became more noticeable as the day went on.

At Sonning Lock, we found a tea garden not mentioned in our guide book. It is open 11 to 5, April to October, according to a sign outside. We were there as it opened, as were others; it is justifiably popular.

The walk to Shiplake is along the river bank, but tall vegetation meant we couldn't always see the Thames. At Shiplake we lunched at The Baskerville: a good menu and ales, and comfort sitting outside. Also a place to pick up a newspaper across the road.

The path disappointingly leaves the river for a bit here and the grand houses are no substitute. Wearying a little, we pressed on to Henley. We booked in at The Catherine Wheel, relishing the box of clean clothes we had sent on ahead.

This completes this week's expedition: worn out, it's a train back to our car tomorrow.